/\\//\\\/\\\THE TERRORIST'S GUIDE ON FUN///\\\///

Version 1. 2001 edition
nOTE:ALL BELOW LISTED SHOULD NOT BE TRIED. THE INFORMATION ON THIS DOCCUMENT IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES AND WE DO NOT ENCOURAGE IT. THIS IS A COLLECTION OF MAny great things..
Pretext:

The author and co-authors of this document, and authors of
the enclosed articles take absolutely no responsibilyity for the
actions taken by the readers of this file. The readers are
assumed to be of whole mind and competancy, so as not to warrant
the punishment of anyone for committing any act herein described.
This file was composed as a documentary article, and in no
way reflects the author's views on law enforcement, its officers,
or its purpose. This article is an informative look at the other
side. The readers do not have to nor are expected to take part in
any of the acts herein described.
Inside this file one will find many detailed descriptions on
how to get anything you ever wanted for free, how to make others
pay for your goodies, how to destroy any thing and anyone at
will, and how to reek havoc upon the populus. The author does not
condone this sort of action, and suggests that those who really
want to do this should read no further, and go see a doctor.
Those who shun the thought of my even compiling this file should
stop fucking reading this and delete it, since it won't do well
sitting next to all your other pristine files on how to track
hackers, and how to protect yourself from setting eyes upon
pornography(*).
I hereby denounce this article and have decided to delete it
from my drive, hopefully before I get the urge to upload it to
the unsuspecting populus. Those concerned with my actions, rest
your eyes, type: DEL DARK19-?.TXT at the DOS prompt, and get
some sleep.

aRE yOu rEAdY???

C02 Cartridge Bombs <<<<< You will have to use up the new cartridge by either shooting it in a C02 B-B gun or use it in a C02 car or whatever else you might figure out to do with it. With a nail, force the hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridte with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface. Insert a fuse (I recommend good waterproof cannon fuse, but I've used fire- cracker fuses.) Light it and run!!! It does wonders for a row of mail boxes. Be careful however, this little beauty throws shrapnel and can be quite a hazard.
Thermite Bombs<<<<< The first step in the construction of a thermite bomb is to get some iron-oxide (rust). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time: First you will need a DC converter which can be found on a race track or train track. Cut the connector off, separate the two wires, and strip them both. You will secondly need a jar of water which has been diluted with salt to make the water a conductor (use about a tablespoon.) Then insert both wires into the solution and determine which bubbles the most. You then need to tie a common iron nail to the one that bubbles the most (The positive wire). If you don't you will get the opposite of rust...Rust acid! Put the nail tied to the positive wire and the negative wire in the jar on opposite sides until they are both completely submerged. Let that set over night and then remove the (crusty) stuff off the nail and remove the wires. Let this set until a sufficient amount of the crust is at the bottom. Remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution in a cookie sheet and let it dry out in the sun for a couple of hours, or over night. It should be an orange-brown color, though I've had it many different colors. Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast iron pot until it's red. (I'm not sure what that does.) Now mix the iron-oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum. That's thermite!!! Now, to light it you must get some magnesium which is sorta hard to get for me cause my hardware store don't have it. I finally found that I could get a perfect piece of magnesium ribbon from the chemistry lab! This ribbon is the fuse of the bomb. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite...But to light the magnesium you need a blow torch (Don't worry, the blow torch is not hot enough to light the thermite). Well keep your thermite in a bag and then when you see an innocent car...Pour a small amount of thermite on the wood, stick a length of magnesim in it and then light the magnesium with the blow torch and watch it burn right through the hood, the block, the axle, and spark and flare on the pavement. Be careful...The ideal mixtures can vaporize carbonized steel (Which is damn hot!) Have fun!
Touch Explosive<<<<< This is sort of a mild explosive, but can be dangerous in large quantities. To make touch explosive (Such as that found in a snap and pop, but more potent) mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Let it set until you get a white precipitate at the bottom...Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals the same way as the thermite. Be careful now cause these dried crystals are your touch explosives! I haven't found a good use for it yet, but it's fun to throw at people or leave it in their chairs at school..It can get painful if applied properly!
Letter Bombs<<<<< You will first have to make a mild version of thermite as mentioned above, however you will use just plain iron filings instead of rust. Mix the iron filing with the aluminm filings in a ratio of 75% aluminum with 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in an enclosed space (such as an envelope) which brings us to the next ingredient. Go to the post office or business supply store and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. The type that is double layered. Separate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There's your bomb. Now to light it! This is the tricky part and is hard to explain in writing. Experiment with this idea until you have got it right. Ok, the fuse is just that touch explosive placed where the letter would be torn open. You may want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium.) When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flashlight) and then it will burn the mild thermite. I've never sent one of these so I don't really know if it works good. I do know that the thermite burns real hot and if it didn't blow up it would give some one a bad burn (Thermite does wonders on human flesh!!)
Paint Bombs<<<<< To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal can with a fastenable lid, a nice bright color paint, and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the lid on tightly and then run. With some testing you can get it down so you have a timer that works on how much ice you have compared with how much paint you have. If you're really pissed at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!!! Enough bombs....Let's work on cars.
Ways to Send A Car To Hell<<<<< There are a thousand and one ways to destroy a car but I will only cover those which are most fun and hardest to find out about. Place thermite on the hood as mentioned above, place burning magnesium on the hood, tape a Co2 bomb to the (axle, hood, wheel, muffler, all), put a tampon, dirt, sugar, a ping pong ball, just about anything) in the gas tank. Put (Potatoes, bananas, rocks, or anything at all that will fit) in the exhaust pipe. Put a long rag in the gas tank and catch it on fire (Run real far). Make a jimmey and pick the lock and then steal the stereo....I'll try to draw a picture...Cut one of those thin metal rulers int the pattern given below: ____________________________________________________ ____ |__| \ sorta phallic huh? | |--| / ---------------------------------------------------- ---- The important part are the notches on the sides which are used to pull up ^ on the cable which pulls up the lock! Get stereos, equalizers, rader detectors, car guns, loose change and cassette tapes, and then destroy the inside (a knife is handy for the seats.)
Hate school???<<<<< One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat...Tell them it's in a locker, then they have to check them all and that takes an hour at our school. I've even placed a fake bomb in a locker (not mine), called it in, and they called off school for the whole week!! (Little did I know that we had to make it up during the summer). Or you could get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule and flush it down a toilet. Use a smoke grenade in the cafeteria, halls or bathrooms. Steal keys off the school computers, steal the 80col cards inside, or any of the cards! Put a large magnet on the monitors. Make friends with student assistants in the counseling office and have them change your grade when teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards. Spit your gum out on the carpeted floor at school, and watch the janitors cry. Draw on lockers or write on the building that the principal is a fascist. Ours offerereed a reward after I did that!! I wanted to turn myself in!! Use your imagination!
Phone Related Vandalism<<<<< If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone line very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable.. Cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced. There's a week of work!!! Or you can do my favorite, call them with a directory dialer for about a week...They won't get another call besides yours for that entire week! How about calling the phone company and having it disconnected for a while, or have their mail held for a month or two (Say you're going on vacation and give them their address.)
Misc.<<<<< How about going into Target and setting the alarms on the radios and then crank the volume....Five minutes later.. while you are far away in another part of the store....You hear radios cranked going off and people frantically trying to turn it off.. Do some price switching, for yourself or to get someone else in trouble. Be creative.. There's always a way to be obnoxious and annoying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! /'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ | | | Watch for: The Vandal's Handbook Volume ][ | | Including: Box plans, exploding arrows, and hand grenades! | | | /'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ /'\ Thanx to: The I/O Error /'\ (Though he didn't do much!) /'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ I would like to close by saying that Capt. Wuss should be black booked for lying and generally making an asshole of himself...... -CAPT. CHAOS /'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\

How to build a simple <-=-= -=-=-
Terrorist device from <-=-= -=-=-
a Coke Can <-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
The following is docs on building a very cool gernade made from Calcium Carbide and water in a Coke Can <-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=- Re-Written by Nitro <-=-= -=-=- <-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Material: ^^^^^^^^^ Calcium Carbide Coke Can Rubber Cememt Water Medium Size Test Tube A Cork wider than the mouthpiece of the Coke Can Knife Introduction: ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ A carbide bomb consists of a basic chemical reaction between calcium carbide and water. Procedure: ^^^^^^^^^^ 1. First go to any hardware store and buy some calcium carbide. They should have it because carbide camping lamps use the stuff. The stuff should look like small pieces of gravel. 2. Get a empty Coke Can, fill the can with calcium carbide so it fills about 1/4 of the can. 3. Fill the test tube with water. Place the test tube inside the can through the mouthpiece. 4. Now you are faced with an mouthpiece. Most people can't find a propane torch to melt a piece of metal on the opening ao if you can do that then what you can do is take a cork larger than the opening of the mouthpiece. Take a knife and etch in a ring about 1/4 - 1/2 inches above the small end of the cork. Now carefully wedge in the cork (It may take a while) into the mouthpiece. After it slips into the wedge in ring. Let it sit for a day so it somewhat returns to a bloated cork. A wise thing is to have a bit of rubber cement around the cork when it goes in so water can't get into the can. To test, soak the can in a pot of water and place down and stay away for a few hours. 5. To use this nasty item, just throw it and when the can hits on any hard surface it'll break the test tube and water will react with the gravel and BOOM. It is better to use it for some fun, scare someone. Fig. 1 Top view of the can --------------- - - - !-----!------- Place cork in opening - !-----! - Put glye around cracks - - --------------- Fig. 2 Cork Wedge ---------- \ ______ / \ /------- Wedge it with a knife right here ------ FIG. 3 Coke Can grenade over view _ \ /---- Cork ----------- ! _ ! ! ( ) ! ! ( )------ Test Tube with Water ! ( ) ! !****( )**------ Calcium Carbide !*********! -----------



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FOR THE DEEP DOWN TERRORIST IN YOU
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HOW TO MAKE GREEK FIRE
----------------------

1 PARTS SULFUR (LIVE)
2 PARTS CHARCOAL (OF WILLOW)
6 PARTS SALTPETRE (POTASSIUM NITRATE)

GRIND EACH ELEMENT INTO A FINE POWDER SEPERATLEY WITH A MORTAR AND MIX.

WHEN LIT AND THROWN FLAMING, IT CARRIES THE FLAME WHEREVER IT GOES AND
SPLATTERS FIRE WHERE IT LANDS.

THE GREEKS USED THIS TO WIN WAR AT SEA. THE ENEMY HAD NEVER SEEN ANYTHING
LIKE IT AND EVENTUALLY PERISHED.

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HOW TO MAKE GUN PROPELLANT
--------------------------

1.0 PARTS SULFUR
1.5 PARTS CHARCOAL (CARBON)
7.5 PARTS SALTPETRE (POTASSIUM NITRATE)

(LOOKS FARMILIAR...)
AS WITH GREEK FIRE, IT IS GROUND SEPERATELY AND MIXED.

THIS FORMULAE PRODUCES GUN PROPELLANT THAT BURNS AT 1312 FEET PER SECOND.
OR 400 METERS PER SECOND IF YOU THINK IN METRIC.

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MERCURY FULMINATES
------------------
MERCURY FULMINATE IS A MEDIUM-POWER EXPLOSIVE THAT IS COMMONLY USED IN BLASTING
CAPS, DETONATING DEVICES IN GENERAL, AND AS A STAND-ALONE EXPLOSIVE.
ALL FULMINATES, INCLUDING MERCURY FULMINATE, ARE SENSITIVE TO SHOCK AND
FRICTION, AND IN NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THEVE 91
Je
R(H)OUGH OR
CARELESS MANNER.

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MERCURY FULMINATE #1 (SHOCK BOMB)
---------------------------------

SHOCK BOMBS, OR MORE PROPERLY, FULMINATE OF MERCURY [HG(ONC)2], ARE BOMBS THAT
EXPLODE WHEN JOLTED IN ANY WAY, SUCH AS LANFING ON SOMEONE'S FEET OR SHOT FROM
A DISTANCE WITH A BB GUN.

ADD MERCURY (FOUND IN THERMOMETERS AND STRANGE GADGETS AT RADIO SHACK) TO
NITRIC ACID (CHEMICALS CATALOGS). DON'T TOUCH THE MERCURY. NOW CAREFULLY ADD
ALCOHOL (RUBBING ALCOHOL OR ANYTHING: DRUG OR GROCERY STORE) TO THE MIXTURE AND
VOILA! INSTANT SHOCK BOMB.

I RECCOMEND RIPPING THE TOP OFF OF A COKE CAN AND STUFFING A PAPER TOWEL IN
TO MAKE IT LESS LIKELY TO BLOW UP WHEN YOU DON'T WANT. GENTLY TRANSFER THE
MIXTURE TO THE COKE CAN AND, IF YOU WANT, IT WITH ANOTHER CAN TO MAKE IT LOOK
MORE INNOCENT.

NOW PLACE IT SOMEWHERE AND THROW A ROCK AT IT, SHOOT IT WITH A WRISTROCKET OR
BB GUN AND BOOM!

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MERCURY FULMINATE #2
--------------------

[-1-] TAKE 5 GRAMS OF PURE MERCURY AND MIX IT WITH 35 ML. OF NITRIC ACID.

[-2-] THE MIXTURE IS SLOWLY AND GENTLY HEATED. AS SOON AS THE SOLUTION
BUBBLES AND TURNS GREEN, ONE KNOWS THAT THE SILVER MERCURY IS
DISSOLVED.

[-3-] AFTER IT IS DISSOLVED, THE SOLUTION SHOULD BE POURED, SLOWLY, INTO
A SMALL FLASK OF ETHYL ALCOHOL. THIS WILL RESULT IN RED FUMES.
[-4-] AFTER A HALF HOUR OR SO, THE RED FUMES WILL TURN WHITE, INDICATING
THAT THE PROCESS IS NEARING ITS FINAL STAGE.

[-5-] AFTER A FEW MINUTES, ADD DISTILLED WATER TO THE SOLUTION.
[-6-] THE ENTIRE SOLUTION IS NOW FILTERED, IN ORDER TO OBTAIN THE SMALL
WHITE CRYSTALS. THESE CRYSTALS ARE PURE MERCURY FULMINATE, BUT SHOULD
BE WASHED MANY TIMES, AND TESTED WITH LITMUS PAPER FOR ANY REMAINING
UNDESIRABLE ACID.

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MERCURY FULMINATE #3
--------------------

[-1-] MIX ONE PART MERCURIC OXIDE WITH TEN PARTS AMMONIA SOLUTION. WHEN
RATIOS ARE DESCRIBED, THEY ARE ALWAYS DONE ACCORDING TO WEIGHT
RATHER THAN VOLUME.

[-2-] AFTER WAITING EIGHT TO TEN DAYS, ONE WILL SEE THAT THE MERCURIC OXIDE
HAS REACTED WITH THE AMMONIA SOLUTION TO PRODUCE THE WHITE FULMINAVE
CRYSTALS.

[-3-] THESE CRYSTALS MUST BE HANDLED IN THE SAME WAY AS METHOD #2 ABOVE, IN
THAT THEY MUST BE WASHED MANY TIMES AND GIVEN SEVERAL LITMUS PAPER
TESTS.

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HOW TO MAKE A HIGH SCHOOL BOMB
------------------------------

I WOULDN'T KNOW ABOUT THIS BUT THE LOCAL NEWSPAPER REPORTED A STORY ON A CAR
BEING TOTALED AND A LADY SUFFERING SERIOUS BURNS ON HER TORSO AFTER IT EXPLODED
IN HER LAP ON THE 4TH OF JULY. ANYWAY THEY REPORTED THE FORMULA USED... EASY.

ADD CLORINE TO BRAKE FLUID IN A GLASS BOTTLE AND RUN.

DON'T ASK WHY IT'S CALLED A HIGH SCHOOL BOMB, THAT'S JUST WHAT FRIENDS OF MINE
WHO ALREADY KNEW ABOUT IT CALLED IT.

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CONVERTING A SHOTGUN INTO A GERNADE LAUNCHER
--------------------------------------------

A 12- OR 16-GAUGE SHOTGUN IS PROPPED UP WITH A SET OF FOLDING LEGS, SO AS TO
FORM A TRIPOD, WITH THE BUTT OF THE GUN BEING THE THIRD LEG AT ABOUT A 45-
DEGREE ANGLE. THE ANGLE CAN BE VARIED, FOR AIMING, BY MOVING THE LEGS BACK AND
FORTH. TO BUILD A GRENADE LAUNCHER, ONE MUST TAKE AN OPEN SHELL AND REMOVE
ALL THE SHOT. ONCE THIS IS DONE, REPLACE IT WITH A SMOOTH CYLINDRICAL STICK,
WHICH HAS BEEN CUT DOWN TO A CLOSE FIT. WHEN THE SHELL IS LOADED INTO THE
GUN, THE STICK SHOULD EXTEND OUT THE MUZZLE OF THE GUN. TO THE EXTENDED
RORTION, A FLAT RUBBER BASE SHOULD BE FIXED AND A "MOLOTOV COCKTAIL" PLACED
ON IT. THIS WILL SEND THE BURNING BOTTLES OVER A HUNDRED YARDS WITH A GOOD
FEAL OF ACCURACY. THIS IS A GOOD WEAPON FOR ENCIRCLEMENT.

/ /
/ /*
/_/ <--- MOLOTOV COCKTAIL
/
/ <--- STICK
//
//
///
/// <--- SHOT GUN
///\
/// \\
_///\ \ \
\\/ \ \ <--- FOLDING LEGS
/// \___\
//// \ \
///// \
//////

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HOW TO MAKE A GOOD MOLOTOV COCKTAIL
-----------------------------------
A "MOLOTOV COCKTAIL" IS A BOTTLE FILLED WITH A FLAMMABLE LIQUID SUCH AS
GASOLINE, MIXED WITH OIL OR SOAP POWDER TO THICKEN IT. A FUSE, USALLY A RAG
SOAKED IN GASOLINE, IT ATTACHED TO THE CORK, LIT, AND THROWN. THE BOTTLE
BREAKS ON CONTACT WITH ANOTHER HARD OBJECT, AND THE GASOLINE IGNITES, CAUSING
A BURST OF FLAME. THESE WERE USED WITH A GREAT DEGREE OF SUCCESS IN HUNGARY,
AGAINST THINGS AS BIG AS TANKS.

***
|*|* *
| |** <--- GASOLINE-SOAKED RAG FUSE
/ \**
|/////|*
|/////| <--- 2/3 GASOLINE
|/////|
|/////|
|%%%%%| <--- 1/3 OIL
|%%%%%|
~~~~~~~



PARTS:
5- TO 6-SECOND FUSE (SEE TO PYRO BOOK II)
CARDBOARD TUBE (CARDBOARD MAILER AT POST OFFICE (BEST), OR PAPER TOWEL ROLL)
IRON SCRAPS (FOUND AT ANY MACHINE SHOP, TELL THEM ITS TO FILL A PUNCHING BAG)
NON-ELECTRIC BLASTING CAP (USE MERCURY FULMINATE ABOVE)
TNT (I COULD TELL YOU BUT SOMEONE ELSE ALREADY HAS. FIND IT.)
WOODEN HANDLE (ANY HARDWARE STORE OR HOBBY SHOP SELLS DOWELS)

/ \___/ \_ <--- 5- TO 6-SECOND FUSE
/
\
\===\==\
\,',\,'\
\,',\,<---- IRON SCRAPS
\,',\,'\
\///\//\
\//\\<----- NON-ELECTRIC BLASTING CAP
\//\\//\
\//////\
\/////<---- TNT
\======\
\\
\\

FORMULAS FOR AMMONIUM NITRATE COMPOUNDS
---------------------------------------

HERE ARE FIFTY-SIX FORMULAS FOR AMMONIUM NITRATE COMPOUNDS. AMMONIUM NITRATE
IS A NEAT EXPLOSIVE THAT CAN BE DETONATED WITH ALMOST ANYTHING.

THERE ARE TWO REASONS FOR LISTING ALL FIFTY-SIX COMPUNDS. FIRST, THEY ARE
ALL DIFFERENT AND, REASONABLY ENOUGH, ALL BLOW DIFFERENTLY (SOME ARE MORE
POWERFUL, ALTHOUGH I HAVE NOT TRIED ALL 56). SOME REQUIRE MORE CARE THAN
OTHERS TOO. SECONDLY, YOU MAY NOT HAVE ALL THE MATERIALS FOR ONE, BUT YOU
MIGHT HAVE ALL YOU NEED FOR THE ANOTHER.

ENOUGH TALK. HERE THEY ARE. ALL RATIOS ARE ACCORDING TO WEIGHT, NOT VOLUME.

1) AMMONIUM NITRATE 60 2) AMMONIUM NITRATE 34
POTASSIUM NITRATE 29.5 POTASSIUM NITRATE 34
SULFUR FLOUR 2.5 T.N.T. 17
CHARCOAL POWDER 4 AMMONIUM CHLORIDE 15
WOODMEAL 4
4) AMMONIUM NITRATE 59
3) AMMONIUM NITRATE 59 AMMONIUM SULFATE 9
WOODMEAL 10 NITROGLYCERN 6
NITROGLYCERN 10 BARIUM SULFATE 7
SODIUM CHLORATE 20 DEXTRIN 8
MAGNESIUM CARBONATE 1
6) AMMONIUM NITRATE 75
5) AMMONIUM NITRATE 88 ALUMINUM POWDER 25
CHARCOAL POWDER 12
8) AMMONIUM NITRATE 64
7) AMMONIUM NITRATE 94 T.N.T. 15
POTASSIUM NITRATE 2 SODIUM CHLORIDE 21
CHARCOAL POWDER 4
10) AMMONIUM NITRATE 35
9) AMMONIUM NITRATE 60 POTASSIUM NITRATE 33
WOODMEAL 10 T.N.T. 12
NITROGLYCERIN 10 AMMONIUM CHLORIDE 20
SODIUM CHLORIDE 20
12) AMMONIUM NITRATE 92.5
11) AMMONIUM NITRATE 87 POTASSIUM BICHROMATE2
CHARCOAL POWDER 13 NAPHTHALENE 5.5




House Hold equivalants
----- ---- -----------

Name Equivalant
---- ----------
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
ethylene dichloride dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magesium silicate talc
magesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter
potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium choride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass


1. Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger

Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond".

If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!




2. Credit Card Fraud by The Jolly Roger

For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it.

Step One: Getting the credit card information

First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy.

First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given.

Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies

Card example:

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to .00, even if the card holder is broke.

[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first.

[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:

[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card

Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three: Testing credit

You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels".

Step Four: The drop

Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites:

[1] An empty house

An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.

[2] Rent A Spot

U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives.

[3] People's houses

Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people.

Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five: Making the transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site.

The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order.

If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over . In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over , not to mention that anything over is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck!


3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.

First off, you must obtain:

A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0ّC. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.

Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.

You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing:

Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762


4. Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger

Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed?

The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake.

The first number:

Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination.

The second number:

Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination.

The third number:

After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right.

This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now).

5. The Arts of Lockpicking I by The Jolly Roger

Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks

While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene.

Automobiles:

Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So:

American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230

ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is .75 plus .00 postage and handling.

Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:

Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801

LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for .00 plus .00 for postage and handling.

The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by:

Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408

For .95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.

Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So:

A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646

Price is .95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.

If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:

Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588

VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys).
10. Thermite II by Jolly Roger

Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time:

Get a DC converter like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, separate the wires, and strip them both.

Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive.

Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the converter in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).

Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?

Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)

Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams.

Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...

Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, magnesium ribbon (which is sort of hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite.

Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes.


PHONE DAMAGE-If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)

19. Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger

Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water

Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.


20. The easiest way to hot-wire cars by the Jolly Roger

Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it's enclosed, forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take off!


22. How to make a fertilizer bomb by The Jolly Roger

Ingredients:

Newspaper
Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
Cotton
Diesel fuel

Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!!


23. Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger

Ingredients:

Strike anywhere matches
A tennis ball
A nice sharp knife
Duct tape

Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!


24. Diskette Bombs by The Jolly Roger

You need:

A disk
Scissors
White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
Clear nail polish

Carefully open up the diskette (3«" disks are best for this!)
Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might spark the matchpowder!)
After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
Let it dry
Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).

When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!!


25. Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger

There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into getting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple hundred bucks, but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down!


26. Fuses by The Jolly Roger

You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.


SLOW BURNING FUSE - 2 inches per minute

Materials needed:

Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
Granulated sugar

Procedure:

Wash the cotton string or shoelaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water

Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water

Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution

Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry

Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!


FAST BURNING FUSE - 40 inches per minute

Materials needed:

Soft cotton string
Fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
Shallow dish or pan

Procedure:

Moisten powder to form a paste.

Twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together.

Rub paste into string and allow to dry.

Check the burn rate!!!




IMPROVED PHONE BOMB
The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig the device as follows:

FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL. Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece, (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive the full line power, not just the audio power to the earpiece)

Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the circuit to the detonator....

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/|------|\par~ | | ~
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181.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 2 by Exodus

This volume defines a few varieties of misc. explosives, charges, and whatever I had in mind at that time. Anyway, these formulas are not as precise in measurements for they were given in brief summary. However, they will work, and if used correctly can be safe and "fun".

FRENCH AMMONAL [Low Explosive]:

Ingredients:

86% Ammonium Nitrate
6% Stearic Acid
8% Aluminum Powder

Description:

French ammonal is an easily improvised low explosive mixture. It is generally less effective than an equal weight of TNT. The material is loaded by pressing it into a suitable container. Initiation by an Engineer's special blasting cap is recommended.

Comments:

This material was tested. It is effective.

References:

TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques, para 1401.

TETRYTOL [High Explosive]:

Ingredients:

75% Tetrytol
25% TNT

Description:

Tetrytol is a high explosive bursting charge. It is used as a demolition explosive, a bursting charge for mines, and in artillery shells. The explosive force of tetrytol is approximately the same as that of TNT. It may be initiated by a blasting cap. Tetrytol is usually loaded by casting.

Comments:

This material was tested. It is effective.

References:

TM 9-1900; Ammunition, General, page 55. Military Explosives, page 188.

IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER [High Explosive]:

Ingredients:

Finely Powdered Potassium Chlorate
Cdata bstals
Petroleum Jelly
**MIX THOUROUGHLY**

Description:

This plastic explosive filler can be detonated with a No. 8 commercial blasting cap or with any military blasting cap. The explosive must be stored in a waterproof container until ready to use.

Comments:

This material was tested. It is effective.

References:

TM 31-210, Improvised Munitions, sec I, No. 1.

FLAMMABILITY OF GASES [Gas Explosive]:

Ingredients:

Explosive Gas

Description:

Under some conditions, common gases act as fuel. When mixed with air, they will burn rapidly or even explode. For some fuel-air mixtures, the range over which the explosion can occur is quite wide while for others the limits are narrow. The upper and lower amounts of common fuels that will cause an ignitable mixture are shown in the table below. The quantity shown is the percentage by volume of air. If the fuel-air mixture is too lean or too rich, it will not ignite. The amounts shown are therefore called limits of inflammability.

Gases (% by volume of air)
Fuel (Gas)Lower LimitUpper LimitWater Gas Or Blue Gas7.072Natural Gas4.715Hydrogen4.075Acetylene2«81Propane2.210Butane1.99
Comments:

These fuels have been tested under laboratory conditions. They are effective. Ignition depends on method of initiation, uniformity of mixture, and physical conditions.

References:

Bulletin 29, Limits of Inflammability of Gases and Vapors H.F. Coward and G.W. Jones, Bureau of Mines, US Government Printing Office, 1939.


182.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 3 by Exodus

This is the MOST important or one of the most important volumes regarding the various mixtures of anarchy that I will be "publishing" to the "public". Also, it may as well be the MOST DANGEROUS to prepare, the substance we will be dealing with is Trinitrotoluene, or short - TNT. This high explosive is a VERY DANGEROUS, slightly unstable substance. The crystallized crude TNT is about the color of brown sugar and feels greasy to the touch. It is suitable for many uses as a high-explosive, but not for the use in high-explosive shells. It is also highly reactive to many other chemical substances. It can be incorporated into dynamite and many other explosives that will be explained in further detail later, in other volumes of ANARCHY.

WARNING:
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FINISH THIS PROJECT UNLESS YOU ARE FULLY CAPABLE SAFELY EXECUTING THE PROCESSES IN A SAFE ENVIRONMENT! IF YOU CHOOSE TO CONTINUE, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THROUGH BEFORE BEGINNING AND HAVE ALL MATERIALS AND TOOLS (INCLUDING SAFETY/EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT) READY FOR USE WHEN OR IF THEY ARE NEEDED. THIS IS NOT A JOKE! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!

Preparation of Trinitrotoluene (Three Stages). A mixture of 294 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid (density 1.84) and 147 grams of nitric acid (density 1.42) is added slowly from a dropping funnel to 100 grams of toluene in a tall 600-cc. beaker, while the liquid is stirred vigorously with an electric stirrer and it's temperature is maintained at 30ّC to 40ّC by running cold water in the vessel in which the beaker is standing. The addition of acid will require from an hour to an hour and a half. The stirring is then continued for half an hour longer without cooling; the mixture is allowed to stand over night in a separatory funnel; the lower layer of spent acid is drawn off; and the crude mononitrotoluene is weighed. One-half of it, corresponding to 50 grams of toluene, is taken for the dinitration. The mononitrotoluene (MNT) is dissolved in 109 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid (d. 1.84) while the mixture is cooled in running water. The solution in a tall beaker is warmed to 50ّ and a mixed acid, composed of 54« grams each of nitric acid (d. 1«0) and sulfuric acid (d. 1.84), is added slowly drop by drop from a dropping funnel while the mixture is stirred mechanically. The heat generated by the reaction raises the temperature, and the rate of addition of the acid is regulated so that the temperature of the mixture lies always between 90ّ and 100ّ. The addition of the acid will require about 1 hour. After the acid has been added, the mixture is stirred for 2 hours longer at 90ّ-100ّ to complete the nitration. Two layers separate on standing. The upper layer consists largely of dinitrotoluene (DNT), but probably contains a certain amount of TNT. The trinitration in the laboratory is conveniently carried out without separating the DNT from the spent acid.

While the dinitration mixture is stirred actively at a temperature of about 90ّ, 145 grams of fuming sulfuric acid (petroleum containing 15% free SO3) is added slowly by pouring from a beaker. A mixed acid, composed of 72« grams each of nitric acid (d. 1«0) and the 15% petroleum, is now added drop by drop with good agitation while the heat of the reaction maintains the temperature at 100-115ّ. After about three-quarters of the acid has been added, it will be found necessary to apply external heat to maintain the temperature. After all the acid has been added (taking 1 « to 2 hours), the heating and stirring are continued for 2 hours longer at 100-115ّ. After the material has stood overnight, the upper TNT layer will be found to have solidified to a hard cake, and the lower layer of spent acid to be filled with cdata bstals. The acid is filtered through a Buchner funnel (without filter paper), and the cake is broken up and washed with water on the same filter to remove excess of acid. The spent acid contains considerable amounts of TNT in solution; this is precipitated by pouring the acid into a large volume of water, filtered off, rinsed with water, and added to the main batch. All the of the product is washed three or four times by agitating it vigorously with hot water under which it is melted. After the last washing, the TNT is granulated by allowing it to cool slowly under hot water while the stirring is continued. The product, filtered off and dried at ordinary room temperature, is equal to a good commercial sample of crude TNT. It may be purified by dissolving in warm alcohol at 60ّ and allowing to cool slowly, or it may be purified by digesting with 5 times its weight of 5% sodium hydrogen sulfite solution at 90ّ for half an hour with vigorous stirring, washing with hot water until the washings are colorless, and finally granulating as before. The product of this last treatment is equal to a good commercial sample of purified TNT. Pure ALPHA-TNT, melting point 80.8ّ, may be procured by recrystallizing this material once from nitric acid (d. 1.42) and once from alcohol.

Well, that's it... AND REMEMBER MY WARNING!


183.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 4 by Exodus

In this particular volume, we will be discussing types of Dynamite, these high-explosives being one of the more important or destructive of the anarchist's formulas. Note that some of these mixtures are very unstable or shock ignited, and that care should be observed when handling these unstable mixtures. Some of these formulae deal with Trinitrotoluene (TNT) and the preparation for that is given under the volume 3, within this series.

WARNING:
THESE ARE REAL EXPLOSIVES AND MAY CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH UPON MISUSE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PREPARE ANY AS SAMPLE IF YOU ARE NOT FULLY CAPABLE OF UNDERSTANDING THE DANGERS AND PRECAUTIONS OF THESE PRODUCTS. THESE FORMULAE ARE THE TRUE FORMULAE TO CREATE THESE MIXTURES AND ARE THEREFORE VERY DANGEROUS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

Guhr Dynamite:

Ingredients

1 part Kieselguhr
3 parts Nitroglycerin

Description

This dynamite is primarily used in blasting. It is fairly stable, in the drop test, it exploded by the fall of a 1 kg weight through 12 to 15 cm., or by the fall of a 2 kg weight through 7 cm. The frozen material is less sensitive: a drop of more than 20 cm. with a 1 kg weight is needed to explode it, and the 2 kg weight is necessary to explode it. Frozen or unfrozen, it can be detonated by shooting at it with a military rifle, when held in a paper cartridge. Generally, it is detonated with a steel-on-steel blow. Velocity of detonation vary from 6650 to 6800 meters per second at a density loading of 1«0.

Extra-Dynamite:

FORMULA 1FORMULA 271% Nitroglycerin62% Ammonium Nitrate23% Ammonium Nitrate25% Nitroglycerin4% Collodion12% Charcoal2% Charcoal1% Collodion
Description:

This material is crumbly and plastic between the fingers. This material can be detonated with any detonating cap.

Table Of Dynamite Formulae:

INGREDIENTSTRENGTH 15%20%25%30%35%40%45%50%55%60%Nitroglycerin15%20%25%30%35%40%45%50%55%60%Combustible Material20%19%18%17%16%15%14%14%15%16%Sodium Nitrate64%60%56%52%48%44%40%35%29%23%Calcium or Magnesium Carbonate1%1%1%1%1%1%1%1%1%1%
Table Of More Dynamite Formulae:

INGREDIENTSTRENGTH ORDINARYLOW FREEZING 30%35%40%50%60%30%35%40%50%60%Nitroglycerin15%20%22%27%35%13%17%17%21%27%Nitrosubstitution Compounds0%0%0%0%0%3%4%4%5%6%Ammonium Nitrate15%15%20%25%30%15%15%20%25%30%Sodium Nitrate51%48%42%36%24%53%49%45%36%27%Combustible Material18%16%15%11%10%15%14%13%12%9%Calcium Carbonate or Zinc Oxide1%1%1%1%1%1%1%1%1%1%
Master Table Of Dynamites:

INGREDIENTFORMULA 123456789101112Ammonium Nitrate52536061667378830000Potassium Nitrate2100002.85730«3400Sodium Nitrate0125300000030«24«Barium Nitrate000000024100Na or K Chloride002120«2215800000Hyd Ammonium Oxalate16190000000000Ammonium Chloride600000000000Cereal or Wood Meal0447«2152038«39«40«Glycerin000400000000Spent Tan Bark Meal0000000040100Potassium Dichromate000000000055Sodium Carbonate00000000««00Powdered Coal000040000000Nitrotoluene006100000000Dinitrotoluene000005000000Trinitrotoluene060000020000Nitroglycerin554443.24425252530All measurements in percents

Well, that's it for now... have fun.... hehehehehe! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!


184.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 5 by Exodus

Well, hasn't it been long since Volume 4 of Anarchy 'n' Explosives? Well, I finally got around to typing up another volume. This one will be dedicated to the extremely simple and more accessible explosives and incendiaries to be prepared at home, or laboratory; depending upon the environment you have access to or are accustomed to.

For further information and/or comments on this series of ever popular explosives, contact me (I don't sign these "publications") on the Knavery BBS at xxx-xxx-xxxx on the public message base, I should be reading some requests if you leave them. And, volume number 6 should be coming out sooner than the time between 4 and 5, but don't count on it.

BULK POWDERS:

Bulk powders are types of gunpowder consisting of nitrocellulose and a mixture of other chemically explosive solutions. These nitrocellulose fibers are stuck together, but are not completely collided. Some contain little else but nitrocellulose; others contain, in addition to potassium and barium nitrates, camphor, vaseline, paraffin, lampblack, starch, dextrin, potassium dichromate or other oxidizing or deterrent salts, and diphenylamine for stabilization, and are colored in a variety of brilliant hues by means of coltar dyes. Three typical bulk powders are made up according to the approximate formulas tabulated below:

Nitrocellulose84.087.089.0% N in nitrocellulose13.212.912.9Potassium nitrate7«6.06.0Barium nitrate7«2.03.0Starch0.00.01.0Paraffin oil0.04.00.0Diphenylamine1.01.01.0
The mixture is mixed in warm water and dried thoroughly. Then either granulated or made into powder by crushing with a wooden block and screened through a 12-mesh sieve. The material is then stored in a moisture-resistant container for future or immediate use.

MERCURY FULMINATE:

Mercury fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as white or gray crystals. It is extremely sensitive to initiation by heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It detonates when initiated by any of these means. It is pressed into containers, usually at 3000 psi, for use in detonators and blasting caps. However, when compressed at greater and greater pressure (up to 30,000 psi), it becomes "dead pressed." In this condition, it can only be detonated by another initial detonating agent. Mercury fulminate gradually becomes inert when stored continuously above 100ّF. A dark colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this effect. Mercury exfulminate is stored underwater except when there is danger of freezing. Then it is stored under a mixture of water and alcohol.

Preparation of Mercury Fulminate. Five grams of mercury is added Ext 55 cc. of nitric acid (specific gravity 1.42) in a 100-cc. Erlenmeyer flask, and the mixture is allowed to stand without shaking until the mercury has gone into solution. The acid liquid is then poured into 50 cc. of 90% alcohol in a 500-cc. beaker in the hood. The temperature of the mixture rises, a vigorous reaction commences, white fumes come off, and cdata bstals of fulminate soon begin to precipitate. Red fumes appear and the precipitation of the fulminate becomes more rapid, then white fumes again as the reaction moderates. After about 20 minutes, the reaction is over; water is added, and the cdata bstals are washed with water repeatedly by decantation until the washings are no longer acid to litmus. The product consists of grayish-yellow cdata bstals, and corresponds to a good grade of commercial fulminate. It may be obtained white and entirely pure by dissolving in strong ammonia water, filtering, and reprecipitating by the addition of 30% acetic acid. The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed several times with cold water, and stored under water, or, if a very small amount is desired for experimental purposes, it is dried in a desiccator.

AMATOL:

Description: amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than that of TNT alone. Common compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate and 20% TNT to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is used as the main bursting charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it should not be housed in containers of such metals.

BLACK POWDERS:

Black powders burn either quickly or very slowly depending on the composition of such a mixture; however, these powders produce smoke, often great amounts, and is most useful in applications where smoke is no object. It is the best for communicating fire and for producing a quick, hot flame. Black powder is used in both propellant charges for shrapnel shells, in saluting and blank fire charges, as the bursting charge of practice shells and bombs, as a propelling charge in certain pyrotechnic pieces, and, either with or without the admixture of other substances which modify the rate of burning, in the time-train rings and in other parts of fuses. Below is a list of black powders and their compositions.

NameSaltpeter(Brown) CharcoalSulfurEngland79(18)3England77.4(17.6)5Germany78(19)3Germany80(20)0France78(19)3Forte721513Lente403030Ordinaire621820

185.Explosives and Propellants by Exodus

Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or more pharmacies. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the caliber of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.


BLACK POWDER

Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (caliber) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below:

GRADEBORE WIDTHEXAMPLE OF GUNF«0 or GreaterModel Cannon; some RiflesFF.36 - «0Large Pistols; Small RiflesFFF.36 or SmallerPistols; Derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is about «0 - .00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependent on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impractical to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States.

PYRODEX

Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about .00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.


ROCKET ENGINE POWDER

One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A-2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about .00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.


RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER

Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practical standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for smokeless powder. Powder costs about .00 per pound. In most states any citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the US There are now ID checks in many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging.


186.Lockpicking III by Exodus

If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks.

These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing the latch back into the door.

Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be slipped.

(Ill. 2.11) ___
| } <
Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger
second |___} <
finger

Some methods for getting through locked doors are:

Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards.
Use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but then why bother to slip the lock at all?
Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far enough to slip.
If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so that it lets both fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make it much easier to pick.
If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door opens outward), remove the hinge pins, provided they aren't stopped with welded tabs. Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its effectiveness.
If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to attract the attention of the users or owners or locksmith or police exc.
Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed.
Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it generally takes a *lot* of patience.
Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take breaks. Make the most of your opportunities.
No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups at 3AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any theft or break-ins reported there the next day...
Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those places you're *really* curious about.
Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.)


SLIPPING A LOCK

The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student Ids, etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't leave home without one.

(Ill. #1)

The sheet should then be folded to produce an L, J, or U shaped device that looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|

(Ill. #2)
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
-_______|

(Ill. #3)
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
-___________________|


We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.]

We should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey.



187.Chemical Equivalent List II by Exodus

Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.

ChemicalUsed InAvailable atAlcohol, EthylAlcoholic BeveragesLiquor Stores Solvents: 95% min for bothHardware StoresAmmoniaCLEAR Household AmmoniaSupermarkets or 7-ElevenAmmonium NirateInstant-Cold PaksDrug Stores FertilizersMedical Supply StoresNitrous OxidePressurizing Whip CreamParty Supply Stores Poppers (like CO? ctgs.)Head ShopsMagnesiumFirestartersSurplus or Camping StoresLecithinVitaminsPharmacies or Drug StoresMineral OilCooking, LaxativeSupermarket or Drug StoresMercuryMercury ThermometersSupermarkets Hardware StoresSulfuric AcidUncharged Car BatteriesAutomotive StoresGlycerine Pharmacies or Drug StoresSulfurGardeningGarden or Hardware StoreCharcoalCharcoal GrillsSupermarkets Gardening StoresSodium NitrateFertilizerGardening StoresCellulose (Cotton)First AidDrug Stores Medical Supply StoresStrontium NitrateRoad FlaresSurplus or Auto StoresFuel OilKerosene StovesSurplus or Camping StoresBottled GasPropane StovesSurplus Camping StoresPotassium PermanganateWater PurificationPurification PlantsHexamine or MethenamineHexamine StovesSurplus or Camping StoresNitric Acid *Cleaning PrintingPrinting Shops PlatesPhotography StoresIodine +Disinfectant (tinture)Pharmacy, OSCOSodium PerchlorateSolidox PelletsHardware Stores Cutting Torches (IMPURE)
* Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.

+ The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystalline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to.


188.Nitroglycerin II by Exodus

Nitroglycerin is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerin would use the following procedure:

MATERIAL:
Distilled Water
Table Salt
Sodium Bicarbonate
Concentrated Nitric Acid (13 mL)
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (39 mL)
Glycerin

EQUIPMENT:
Eye-Dropper
100 mL Beaker
200-300 mL Beakers (2)
Ice Bath Container (A plastic bucket serves well)
Centigrade Thermometer
Blue Litmus Paper

Place 150 mL of distilled water into one of the 200-300 mL beakers.
In the other 200-300 mL beaker, place 150 mL of distilled water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some remains undissolved.
Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall temperature.
Place the 100 mL beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 mL of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 mL beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20ّC or less.
When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the 39 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10ّC. It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this.
With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerin into the mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerin meet.

DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30ّ CENTIGRADE
IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, WATCH OUT !!

The glycerin will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerin until there is a thin layer of glycerin on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small quantities.
Stir the mixed acids and glycerin for the first ten minutes of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in the 100 mL beaker well below 30ّC. Usually, the nitroglycerin will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerin is well below 30ّC, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerin and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerin should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin.
Carefully remove the nitroglycerin with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerin more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerin with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
When the nitroglycerin is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerin is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerin can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.



189.Cellulose Nitrate by Exodus

I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I didn't have petroleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool or cotton cloth.

Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disastrous with nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerin. For some reason, I tried washing the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. By the way, water quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose.

The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether.

WARNINGS
All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. Not for the novice.

Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stabilized. The decomposition is autocatalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case.

Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it.

Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by:

Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is recycled.
Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water.
Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water.

If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, then rinsed in fresh water.

The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced.

There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed.

(Ill. 3.22.2)


CH OH CH ONO
| 2 | 2 2
| |
C-----O HNO C-----O
/H 3 /H \par -CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O-
H/ H SO H/
C-----C 2 4 C-----C
| | | |
OH OH ONO ONO
2 2

CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE


190.Starter Explosives by Exodus

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel- oxidizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxidizer:

Oxidizer% by weightFuel% by weightSpeed Notes
Potassium Chlorate67%Sulfur33%5Friction or Impact Sensitive & UnstablePotassium Chlorate50%Sugar35%5Fairly Slow BurningCharcoal15%UnstablePotassium Chlorate50%Sulfur25%8Extremely Unstable! Magnesium or25%Aluminum Dust25%Potassium Chlorate67%Magnesium33%8Unstable Aluminum Dust33%Sodium Nitrate65%Magnesium Dust30%?Unpredictable Sulfur5% Potassium Permanganate60%Glycerin40%4Delay Before Ignition depends upon Grain SizePotassium Permanganate67%Sulfur33%5UnstablePotassium Permanganate60%Sulfur20%5Unstable Magnesium or20% Aluminum Dust20%Potassium Permanganate50%Sugar50%3?Potassium Nitrate75%Charcoal15%7This is Black Powder! Sulfur10% Potassium Nitrate60%Powdered Iron or40%1Burns Very Hot Magnesium40%Potassium Chlorate75%Phosphorus Sesquisulfide25%8Used to make strike-anywhere matchesAmmonium Perchlorate70%Aluminum Dust30%6Solid Fuel for Space Shuttle Small amount of Iron OxidePotassium Perchlorate67%Magnesium or33%10Flash Powder(Sodium Perchlorate) Aluminum Dust33%Potassium Perchlorate60%Magnesium or20%8Alternate(Sodium Perchlorate) Aluminum Dust20% Flash Powder Sulfur20%Barium Nitrate30%Aluminum Dust30%9Alternate Potassium Perchlorate30% Flash PowderBarium Peroxide90%Magnesium Dust5%10Alternate Aluminum Dust5% Flash PowderPotassium Perchlorate50%Sulfur25%8Slightly Unstable Magnesium or25% Aluminum Dust25%Potassium Chlorate67%Red Phosphorus27%7Very Unstable Impact Sensitive Calcium Carbonate3% Sulfur3%Potassium Permanganate50%powdered sugar25%7Unstable Aluminum or25% Ignites if it gets wet! Magnesium Dust25%Potassium Chlorate75%Charcoal Dust15%6Unstable Sulfur10%
WARNING: POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERIN!!!

NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.

The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxidizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning.

As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxidizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture.

191.Flash Powder By Dr. Tiel

Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce your own flash powder:

Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc.) separately in a clean vessel.
NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition.
Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition back and forth.
Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg.
Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power of such mixtures.

KNO3 50% (by weight)
Mg 50%

It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is observed then the KNO3 has water in it. Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed. KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and lives have been lost with such compositions. KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition. KClO4 with Al is generally found in commercial fireworks, this does not mean that it is safe, it is a little safer than KClO3 above. K?Cr?O7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder. The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more powerful the explosive. This of course will also increase the sensitivity of the flash powder.

For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited in the open can detonate, they do not need a container to do so.

NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate.

Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products are considered. Excess metal powders are generally used. This excess burns with atmospheric oxygen.

4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 K?O + 2 N? + 10 MgO + Energy
KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + Al?O3 + Energy
3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 Al?O3 + Energy
6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 K?O + 7 Al?O3 + 6 Mn + Energy

Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic materials, then think about this stuff.

Dr. Van Tiel - Ph.D. Chemistry

Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate.


192.The Explosive Pen by Blue Max

Here's a GREAT little trick to play on your best fiend (no that's not a typo) at school, or maybe as a practical joke on a friend!

Materials Needed:
One Ball Point "Click" pen
Gun Powder
8 or 10 match heads
1 Match stick
a sheet of sand paper (1 «" X 2")

Directions:
Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top.
Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little parts and the ink fill was.
Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker.
Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on the inside on the sand paper.
Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where the ball point comes out.
Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is to keep the powder from spilling.

The Finished pen should look like this:

Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \par | |
| |
_________________|____________________|________
<_______________________________|_______________|===


193.Revised Pipe Bombs by Exodus

First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.

Next, the bomb-builder would partially fill the casing with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:

(Ill. #1)
عآؤؤؤؤؤؤ؟
عؤؤؤؤؤؤؤآؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤظ³ ³
³ ³ o ³ ³
ہؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤ؟³ ³
ہءؤؤؤؤؤؤظ

Fig. 1 - Pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled. [Top view]

(Ill. #2)
عؤؤآؤؤ؟
عؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤظ ³ ³
³ ³ ³
³ o ³ ³
ہؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤ؟ ³ ³
ہؤؤءؤؤظ

Fig. 2 - Pipe with one end flattened and folded up. [Top view]

(Ill. #3)
عؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤ Fuse Hole
³
عؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤoؤؤؤؤ؟ عؤؤؤؤ؟
³ ہ؟ ہؤؤ؟ ³
³ ہؤؤؤؤظ ³
³ عؤؤؤؤؤؤظ
³ عظ
ہؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤؤظ

Fig. 3 - Pipe with flattened and folded end. [Side view]

194.SAFETY TIPS -- HOW NOT TO GET KILLED by Exodus

An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of your own devices. It is obvious that these should be avoided at all costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on the side of caution.

BASIC SAFETY RULES

DON'T SMOKE! (Don't laugh - an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen)
GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPARATELY. It's surprising how friction sensitive some supposedly "safe" explosives really are.
ALLOW for a 20% margin of error - Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a fuse is 30 secs/foot, don't depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to take exactly 2« minutes.
OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can often travel a block or more at high velocities before coming to rest - If you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can kill you.
When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity. Mix the ingredients by the method below:

HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS

The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do:

Ingredients:
1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does not use staples)
The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound.

Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet.
Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders to roll towards the middle of the sheet.
By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from either of the loose ends.
Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items.

195.Ammonium TriIodide Crystals by Exodus

Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown, crushed, or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion.

Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:

Materials:
Iodine crystals
Clear ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, for the suicidal)

Equipment:
Funnel and filter paper
Paper towels
Two throw-away glass jars

Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel.
After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into eight pieces of about the same size.
After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed.


196.Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III by Exodus

Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil.

AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining water.


197.Black Powder III by Exodus

First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem... it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:

MATERIALS:
Potassium Nitrate (75 g) -or- Sodium Nitrate (75 g)
Sulfur (10 g)
Charcoal (15 g)
Distilled Water

EQUIPMENT:
Clay grinding bowl and clay grinder -or- wooden salad bowl and wooden spoon
Plastic Bags (3)
300-500 mL Beaker (1)
Coffee Pot or Heat Source

Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag.
Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity.

198.NitroCellulose by Exodus

Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure:

MATERIALS:
Cotton (Cellulose)
Concentrated Nitric Acid
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid
Distilled Water

EQUIPMENT:
Two (2) 200-300 mL Beakers
Funnel and Filter Paper
Blue Litmus Paper

Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
Immediately add 0« gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes.
Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in.
Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored.

199.RDX II by Exodus

RDX, also called Cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of TNT, and is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than Mercury Fulminate or Nitroglycerin, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.

NO
2
|
N
/ RDX MOLECULE
/ \par H C H C
/ 2 2
/ |
O N N--NO
2 / 2
/
/
CH
2

RDX can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of Ammonium Nitrate.

MATERIALS:
Hexamine -or- Methenamine Fuel Tablets (50 g)
Concentrated Nitric Acid (550 mL)
Ammonium Nitrate
Distilled Water
Table Salt
Ice

EQUIPMENT:
500 mL Beaker
Glass Stirring Rod
Funnel and Filter Paper
Ice Bath Container (Plastic Bucket)
Centigrade Thermometer
Blue Litmus Paper

Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 mL of concentrated Nitric Acid into the beaker.
When the acid has cooled to below 20ّC, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30ّC, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
Drop the temperature below 0ّC, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Ammonium Nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below 0ّC for at least twenty minutes.
Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe.
Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. RDX is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% RDX (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to desensitize the explosive.
HMX is a mixture of TNT and RDX; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. It is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight RDX.
By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of RDX after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the RDX and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Sodium or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the RDX.
RDX detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1«5 g/cubic cm.


200.Black Gate BBS by Exodus

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201.ANFOS by Dean S.

ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set it off.

About ANFO
Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful commercial explosive, with its primary benefit being the fact that it is cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (that's pellets to most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer.

ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water susceptible. It dissolves in it, or absorbs it from the atmosphere, and becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliably cap sensitive.

Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2« kilos of ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazards as the mixture is oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being absorbed.

Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite well. So will big piles. That's how the explosive potential was discovered: a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They also tend to go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but hey, who doesn't...

Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This is a book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.

Incidentally, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need a license to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old folks homes, okay.


202.Picric Acid by Exodus

Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or TNP, is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as TNT. It's another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.

MATERIALS:
Phenol (9« g)
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (12« mL)
Concentrated Nitric Acid (38 mL)
Distilled Water

EQUIPMENT:
500 mL Flask
Adjustable Heat Source
1000 mL Beaker -or- other container suitable for boiling in
Filter Paper and Funnel
Glass Stirring Rod

Place 9« grams of phenol into the 500 mL flask, and carefully add 12« mL of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
Put 400 mL of tap water into the 1000 mL beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil.
After warming the 500 mL flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes.
Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in steps 3-4. Place the 500 mL flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 mL of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1« to 2 hours.
Add 100 mL of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold.
Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
Wash out the 500 mL flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 mL of water, and shake vigorously.
Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously.

203.CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE by Exodus

The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.

MATERIALS:
Potassium Chlorate (2 teaspoons)
Sugar (2 teaspoons)
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (4 oz.)
Gasoline (8 oz.)

EQUIPMENT:
12 oz. glass bottle
Cap for bottle, with plastic inside
Cooking Pan with raised edges
Paper Towels
Glass or Plastic Cup and Spoon

Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry.
Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about « cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry.
When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface.
NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame.

BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes.

In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.

During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. A second charge is used to detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation.

Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding rooms, rendering it structurally unsound.


204.Dry Ice by Exodus

There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is as follows:

Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water.

Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and temperature of the bottle the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 « hours in open air.

The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do the 2-liters, however glass bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel.

Remember, these are LOUD! A classmate of mine set up 10 bottles in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off (there was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's all around them...

USES FOR DRY ICE

Time Bombs:

Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans that hold the coasters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair amount of effort to open). Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave. Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrgghhh!" within a minute, when the CO? pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will probably never figure out what made the noise.

Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle.

More things to do with Dry Ice:

Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the water is warm enough

"Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..."
"You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you
KEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire."

Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned:

Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice is more dangerous than TNT, because it's extremely unpredictable. Even a 2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One source tells me that he caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can. In addition, it is rumored that several kids have been killed by shards of glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs have become very popular in the state of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have been classified as infernal devices, and possession is a criminal offense.

205.Fuses / Ignitors / Delays by Exodus

There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to hide.

FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2« seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about .00 for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impractical. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is described below:

MATERIALS:
Strike-on-Cover type Matches
Electrical Tape -or- Duct Tape
Waterproof Fuse

To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below:

Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds.

20 seconds / 8 inches = 2« seconds per inch.

If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch:

10 seconds / 2« seconds per inch = 4 inches

NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!

After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about « an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off.

Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter.

Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move.

Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.


_____________________
/
/ ------ match book cover
/
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
|e| /
|.| /
|f| /
|u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|.|
|_|

The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled.

When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads.

HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.

To about « cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add « teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily.

Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion.

To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250ّ oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures.

Cut the dry fuse with scissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefully to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.

Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature.

A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.

HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK
Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tying up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250ّ.

It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden.

It can be cut to desired lengths with scissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times.

---IMPACT IGNITION---
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator.

The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A No. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about «0. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:


________________
| |
_ | |
| | |////////
_______| |^^^^^^^|
| ___________|
| |
No. 11 |_______|
percussion _______ ------- Threads for screwing
cap :
here |__________ nipple onto bomb
|____ |
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_| |/////////|
| |
|_________________|

When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.

---MAGICUBE IGNITOR---
A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact initiator can be produced from the common MAGICUBE (.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a small metal rod holding it in place.

CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB.

Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can be easily peeled away.

The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thick glue-like paste. Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the remainder then ignition should be very reliable.

To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air the appropriate end will hit the ground first.

---ELECTRICAL IGNITION---
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, however, military explosive squibs which will do the job.

Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.

---HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE---
By Capt. Hack & GW
Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.


How to burn music from Napster
by KaLlOk420

It really is not hard to burn songs from Napster. first,you want to find out where your songs are kept.they are not kept in Napster itself. Usually they are under MY FILES. go to whatever cd burning program you have. go to your windows bar and select run. Look for MY FIELES,or wherever you keep your music,and drag the songs to the cd burner program. It should work.

How to make and play games on Dreamcast and PS2
by KaLlOk420

What you need to get is a MOD chip. MOD chips are excellent, because they let you play all games,including forign,and also to play burned games.YOU NEVER HAVE TO BUY A GAME AGAIN!!!I just checked on some and you can buy a lot of good ones @ cheap prices @ www.conselchips.com modchips.com
They are well worth the $!!!